CHEESEMAKING WITH FELTHAM'S FARM - 1 THE LAND

SOMERSET AS THE HEART OF BRITISH CHEESEMAKING

In the rolling pastures and ancient dairy country of South West England, Somerset has long stood at the heart of Britain’s artisan cheesemaking tradition. Shaped by rich grazing land, a mild climate, and generations of farming knowledge, the county is home to some of the UK’s most respected independent dairies and farmhouse producers. From clothbound cheddars matured in stone cellars to soft-rinded seasonal cheeses crafted in small batches, Somerset represents a meeting point of heritage, craftsmanship, and agricultural excellence. Its cheesemakers continue to champion traditional methods — hand-ladling curds, using local milk, and ageing cheese with patience and care — while also driving innovation that keeps British artisan cheese recognised on the world stage.

I was fortunate enough to be invited by Penny and Marcus - the inspirations and force behind the award-winning cheeses Rebel Nun, Renegade Monk, Gert Lush, Lucky Marcel and La Fresca Margarita - to spend some time with them at their "Feltham's Farm" in Somerset. I wanted to take a much more detailed look at how they make their fantastic, and arguably 'unique' cheeses.

Over the next few posts I will look at the process - from field to fork, or "Green to lovely" as my wife said.

As is with many cheesemakers, they are not themselves dairy farmers, but buy it locally. As an aside, in our language a cheesemaker who makes cheese by hand but buys the milk in is an "Artisan" cheesemaker, whereas a cheesemaker who also has the cows, sheep, goats or buffalo are "Farmhouse" cheesemakers.

Feltham's Farm gets its milk from Godminster Farm, a mere 10 minutes drive or so away.

History of Godminster Farm

Nestled near the market town of Bruton in the heart of Somerset, Godminster Farm has been part of the region’s agricultural landscape for more than a century, with dairy farming deeply rooted in the land around the hamlet of Godminster itself. When the current owners took over they designed organic farming principles in from the start and across all aspects of the farm, which is 15% unfarmed. Now Godminster has become especially recognised for its commitment to organic agriculture, cementing its reputation as a modern standard-bearer for Somerset’s long farming heritage. It also supplies the milk to Feltham's Farm.

History of Feltham's Farm

Tucked away in the marshy landscape of Somerset’s Blackmore Vale, Feltham’s Farm began its next chapter in 2014 when Marcus Fergusson and Penny Nagle swapped London life for a 22-acre smallholding near Templecombe, looking for a more sustainable and hands-on way of living.

What started as a small organic farm soon grew into one of Somerset’s most exciting artisan cheesemakers after Marcus began experimenting with cheesemaking on a small scale. Before long, the farm became known for its bold washed-rind cheeses, especially the award-winning Renegade Monk, helping put Feltham’s Farm firmly on the map as part of a new generation of creative British cheesemakers.

Sustainability is at the heart of everything they do, from using renewable energy and keeping rare-breed livestock to reducing waste wherever possible. The farm is certified organic by the Soil Association, meaning no synthetic chemicals, pesticides, GM seeds, or routine antibiotics are used, and all of the animals are raised on organic, free-range feed. They also try to follow biodynamic principles where they can and work hard to avoid single-use plastics throughout the farm.