CHEESEMAKING WITH FELTHAM'S FARM - 3 THE MILK

Organic

If you are interested, 2 paragraphs below this one is a quick overview of what goes into producing organic milk. “So what?”, you may think. We mentioned previously that the “Godminster ladies” on the organic Godminster Farm clearly lead a happier and healthier life than their mass-production cousins. A good enough reason on its own, perhaps? Another reason, and from me as a cheesemonger, is I genuinely believe can taste the difference that organic milk makes to the end product….and you may be able to as well. I can taste the grass and herbs and it evokes within me a happy vision of the glorious British countryside. Layers and length of flavour. Outstanding.

Remember; great, safe and repeatable cheese is incredibly difficult to make. An untold number of, and often unknown, factors impact the end result and the cheesemaker takes ‘control’ of as many of these factors as possible. One of the main factors available is the actual milk used, and using organic milk gives the cheese a wonderful flavour where I can really relate to the origin of the milk. How the cows are treated and the land they graze is incredibly important. Whilst real cheddars don't tend to use organic milk they are a great example of how what the cow eats impacts the end result, with spring and autumn milk cheddar lighter and paler than the creamier yellow and richer summer milk cheddars where the cows have eaten a higher level of beta-carotene in the summer grass.

Organic milk in the UK is milk produced under legally regulated organic farming standards that prioritise animal welfare, environmental sustainability, and reduced chemical use. To sell milk as organic, farmers must be certified by an approved UK organic body such as the Soil Association or Organic Farmers. Growers, and their farms are inspected regularly to ensure they comply with strict rules. Organic dairy cows must be fed a mainly grass- and forage-based organic diet grown without artificial pesticides, herbicides, or manufactured fertilisers, and they must have regular access to grazing during the pasture season. The routine use of antibiotics is heavily restricted, and growth hormones are not permitted. Organic farming standards also place limits on stocking density and encourage practices that protect soil health and biodiversity. Compared with non-organic milk production, organic dairy farming generally involves lower-intensity methods and stricter controls on inputs and animal treatment, which is why organic milk is usually more expensive to produce and purchase.

Pasteurised

Pasteurised milk is milk that has been heat-treated to destroy potentially harmful bacteria such as Listeria, Salmonella, and E. coli, making it safer to drink and extending its shelf life. Unpasteurised, or “raw”, milk has not undergone this treatment and therefore retains its natural microflora, but it also carries a higher risk of food borne illness. Feltham’s Farm takes the unpasteurised milk from Godminster Farm and uses their own ‘continuous’ pasteurisation process, which is more energy efficient. Farmers, dairies, and cheesemakers use pasteurisation to improve food safety, consistency, and storage stability. UK law tightly regulates the sale of raw drinking milk: it can only be sold directly to consumers by registered producers in England, Wales, and Northern Ireland, while its sale as drinking milk is banned in Scotland. Whilst using raw milk is more traditional, and sometimes a requirement for the cheeses ‘PGI’ status, this cheesemonger cannot, hand on heart, say that raw milk cheeses taste any better than their pasteurised milk cousins. There are phenomenal versions of each.